Why go
The story goes that Su Dongpo, exiled to Hangzhou, built a causeway across the lake and was gifted a load of pork by grateful citizens. He braised it in Shaoxing wine with soy and slow heat, then returned it to them — and the dish took his name. The causeway he built, Su Causeway, still crosses West Lake today.
The technique is pure patience: pork belly is blanched, tied or cut into perfect squares, then simmered for hours with wine, soy, sugar and spring onion. The result is mahogany-dark, glossy, and so tender that the cube keeps its shape only by the strength of its skin.
- The classic is one perfect square of pork belly, served in its own sauce
- Order it with steamed lotus-leaf buns to soak up the sauce
- The wine used is the same Shaoxing rice wine from nearby Shaoxing
- Rich — one piece is usually enough to share
How to order
In Hangzhou restaurants, dongpo rou is usually sold per piece. Order one square per person or share one between two — it is intensely rich. It arrives in a small clay pot with its braising sauce; tear a lotus-leaf bun, tuck in a slice of the pork, and enjoy the contrast of soft bread, sweet-savoury sauce and melting fat.
Where to go
The old Hangzhou classics are Louwailou (楼外楼) on West Lake, which claims the oldest lineage, and Zhimi (知味观) near Hefang Street. A single portion runs 25–50 RMB. For a budget take, look for street stalls selling dongpo pork in a bun — a Hangzhou fast food that is every bit as satisfying.
Getting there
- Hangzhou's traditional restaurants on and around Hefang Street all have dongpo rou on the menu
- Origin
- Named for poet-governor Su Dongpo (Song dynasty)
- Method
- Slow-braised in Shaoxing wine and soy
- Price
- 25–50 RMB per piece
